Big Fish in a Small Pond

Iokwe and Kassaleilie Everybody!

I finally made my way back to Honolulu - completely exhausted but exhilarated from the trip! I absolutely loved Majuro and Pohnpei and look forward to a trip back! This was a biz trip for me, but I also indulged in the beauty of the people and culture outside of the 4 hours I actually "worked" on each island. It was definitely a cultural experience for me. I met a ton of people, the seminars were very successful and I hopefully built some networks that will give me reason to come back soon.

Guys, I felt like a "big fish in a small pond." You would not believe the people I had the opportunity to meet - from the King of one of the municipalities, to a chief (whom I shared sakau out of the same coconut shell cup), to meeting the chief of staff of the nation (the number 3 man in the country next to the President and VP). On top of that I had the honor of having a senator attend my seminar. Immediately afterward, he invited me to visit his constituents in the district he represents referred to as the Polynesian Village – comprised of displaced Hawaiians, Fijians, etc. I was in awe of this community – all talented craftsmen from which they make their livelihood!

So going on…

While at my hotel, by pure serendipity (I was at the front desk filling out paperwork), I also met the International Consultant on Program Development representing the World Trade Organization (headquartered in Switzerland, but whose home and heart are in Tonga) - a very distinguished gentleman indeed! (He was just checking in). Schooled in Vermont and Connecticut and having lived in Japan for many years and very well traveled, he was so polished and aware of international relations, I had to steal him away to pick his brain over dinner and then breakfast the following morning.

You would not believe this, but among the reasons for him coming to Pohnpei was to meet *ME*!!!!!!! Can you believe it?%$#@!. He had been in Palau several days earlier and was talking to some representatives from other organizations. My name was brought up because they are trying to get me out there to conduct one of my seminars. They knew that I had scheduled them already in Majuro and Pohnpei and was interested in me flying out to Palau to do the same! He even showed me his notebook to prove it. There I was - amongst the list of contacts he was supposed to connect with while he was in Pohnpei! Waaaaahhhh!

Oh and it gets better! I became very good friends with a local gal named Kathy (responsible for my meeting with the King) whose great grandfather was the Governor of Kolonia and who can trace her roots back to the monarchy. Only later did she disclose this to me. Anyway, anxious to share her culture and lifestyle with me, she actually called me one morning to invite me to go to her Grandma's house to pick up a pig. What an experience! We drove into "the sticks" where her family was so hospitable. I watched as they cooked under a thatched roof open air kitchen and stewed taro; peeled, opened and grated coconut the old fashioned way and then customarily offered them to me. Then the kids went to get a baby pig, tied it up and put it in the trunk of our car! It squealed half way through the trip back. I actually got worried when it got quiet, thinking it might have died. When I expressed my concern to Kathy, she just responded, "no problem...if it's dead, we'll have pork for dinner!" She drove like a fearless woman...because I think all the fear was projected on me! Yikes! Island drivers!

The next day, she invited me to her home (inherited land from her uncle). The property was breathtaking! At its edge are mangroves that lead into the ocean! It was a tropical paradise. She is building a modest home right now (VERY MODEST), but over lunch she and I brainstormed about a project. She wants to build a platform (think pier) that traverses the mangrove and then juts out into the ocean. At the end of the platform, peeps can fish or picnic (think thatched roof structure on stilts at the end of the pier). To generate revenue, we're thinking about renting out kayaks and snorkeling gear. There are atolls that visitors can kayak to (and then hike) and they can even kayak to a nearby hotel called "The Village," have a cocktail and then come back! We exchanged thoughts and ideas for hours and couldn't contain our excitement. The pictures are taken from the ocean side to her property which is behind those mangroves - the pier would extend to the ocean! One of the photos is from The Village Resort nearby. I wanted to meet the owners (an American couple) but didn't get a chance to. I did however, get a tour and a peek at the rooms! One word - heavenly!!!!

The project would educate the community about mangrove conservation (they are being chopped down at an alarming rate). The concept would be environmentally sensitive and would provide modest revenue that would be good for the economic development of the area and provide much needed education and exposure to visitors considering the area as a travel destination. I'm so excited about this I could go on and on! The island is sooooo pristine - I can't help but get nostalgic thinking this is what Oahu USED to be!

The people that I met were so hospitable and gracious. On my last night in Pohnpei, the owners of the hotel invited me to a family gathering (turned out to be a HUGE luau that was attended by the entire village really) to celebrate the family matriarch’s 88th birthday. 5 pigs were sacrificed for the occasion and the spread included reef fish, taro, breadfruit, yams and all kinds of yummy eats! It was attended by two chiefs – one prepared sakau, while the other solemnly sat and watched. The big chief was a stately old man with grey hair. I wanted to approach him, but was so scared of his stern look. I’m sure he was a nice man though.

Anyway, there were so many people that came that they spilled into the streets. There were only two tables set out where the food was presented - one for the chief where only he was seated. And another for the birthday gal, three elders….AND ME! Double waaaahhhh! Can you believe I had a VIP seat? I was honored. Everyone else sat on the floor or wood blocks. Wow, I could get used to this! And the best part? The first helpings of food – the best of what they had to offer were put in extra large bowls and served to us first – beginning with the chief. There were about a dozen of these bowls altogether and I was in that lineup, after the chief and the birthday gal of course! I was so honored I was dizzy…or maybe that was the sakau I was feeling…

It sounds like a long trip, but I squeezed everything in a matter of days. Every minute was filled with excitement and activity!

Unfortunately, getting to the Marshall Islands or FSM (Micronesia) is very cost prohibitive. But should you ever want an exotic destination that is an undiscovered jewel, I recommend the area - especially for divers, surfers, and ocean aficionados! It's supposed to be world-class for these sports, but been kept a secret by those "in the know." Apparently, a legion of surfers were recently in Pohnpei, but they did their best at never naming "their surf spots" for publication. I can see why surfers these days are quite the "protectionists."

Anyway, it was a FAB trip all the way around and I can't wait to get back!

Sakau ceremony

Sakau, otherwise known as kava is a drink that is commonly consumed by the locals. A ritual drinking ceremony is performed on special occasions with sakau and I was honored to have been invited to two parties while in Pohnpei at which I had the opportunity to try it.

Sakau is made from a root that is pounded on a large flat stone with a lava rock pounder. A mixture of water is poured over the root which facilitates the liquid-like consistency. To extract the liquid, the roots are placed within the stripped bark of the hibiscus tree where it is then twisted and squeezed until the final concoction oozes out. All that ooze is captured in a cup made out of coconut shell and passed around for sipping.

What does it look like? It looks like mud! What does it takes like? In a word, mud. Its texture is slimy (think stewed okra) and I could only manage small sips – a bigger gulp would surely inspire regurgitation. It has hints of an herbal flavor which soon dissipates because it leaves your lips and tongue absolutely numb.

Sakau is supposed to have a relaxing effect on the drinker. By the looks of the men that drank a lot of it, I can confirm that their eyelids went to half mast, their motor skills appeared to be impaired, and they looked like they were just one step away from being comatose.

The word is that sakau (followed by alcohol) is supposed to help male sexual enhancement. Honestly, this assertion seems a little suspect to me. The effects of this elixir make snails and slugs look agile and nimble. Of course, I’ll need more empirical data to draw any definitive conclusions. Yes…I’ll have to find some willing participants to test the hypothesis the next time.

The beauty of drinking sakau is in the ceremony and the rituals involved in making and sharing it. It’s rich in cultural tradition. The first cups go to the king, followed by the chief, the chief’s wife, titled men and the sakau makers. Once this is done, the sakau is shared with everyone. In particular, I embraced the idea that everyone drank from the same cup thereby reinforcing the sense of family and their oneness. On special occasions, ceremonies like this bring the community together. I was honored to be invited to such a rare occasion.

There’s something so reverent about being a part of something so rich in tradition and authentic. On my last night in Pohnpei, I went to a gathering (of at least 150 people – as they spilled into the streets) to celebrate a matriarch’s 88th birthday. The owner of the hotel I stayed at invited me to join his family for the celebration – it was his mother’s birthday. 5 pigs were sacrificed for the occasion! It was a feast to behold (breadfruit, yam, fresh fish and at least half a dozen cakes)! About a dozen deep dish bowls were prepared with an abundance of food before the feast began. They were served to the guests in order of importance (first bowls going to the chief, the village/municipal elders and the birthday recipient). Can you imagine the honor I felt when I was amongst that lineup? I was moved!

Earlier that day, on the drive up to the home of the birthday gal, my host and fellow guests who accompanied me in the car serenaded me with song. Anthony Bourdain should be jealous! When the sakau ceremony commenced, I was the second female to be offered the first sip. Words cannot express the honor that I felt. I’ve found me a new family!

Kwajalein & Kosrae

The flight on my itinerary identified origination – Majuro, and destination – Pohnpei. What should’ve been a two hour flight was the most obnoxious flight experience I’ve ever had!

First, the flight was delayed – but that was the least disturbing of a bizarre series of things that were about to unfold.

About an hour in flight, I felt a descent. The flight attendant announced that we were about to arrive in Kwajalein. “Am I on the right flight,” I questioned. Kwajalein is an island that has been occupied by the US military. We were told not to take any photographs. It was such a shame because the island boasted so much beauty – even the area that surrounded the landing strip seemed undisturbed by the fact that this place was being exploited for dubious reasons and unsettling uses. From the veneer of the plane’s window, the scenery was so serene.

What came next was a safety check procedure. A staff of “security” people came in to inspect carry-ons. We were asked to get out of our seats and move aside while the cabin was meticulously searched and inspected. Each seat was disassembled – who knows what they were checking for…

Thirty minutes later and several passengers added in transit, and we were back in flight to Pohnpei…or so I thought….

The whole scenario repeated itself in Kosrae, another island in the Micronesian archipelago.

Arggghhh!!! -A two hour flight should never be this excruciatingly long. This wasn’t even in the flight itinerary. Is this standard operating procedure?

I wonder if this is what it’s like going in the other direction. If so, I need to pack some hard liquor on the flight back.

Majuro - A hidden jewel

I arrived in Majuro and unbeknownst to me, crossed the international date line and found that I arrived one day later than when I had left Honolulu on an early morning four and a half hour flight.

Upon descent, I saw Majuro atoll and it resembled one long strip of land, divided by a road flanked by ocean on both sides – that’s how narrow some parts of the island are!

The main terminal reminded me of what the Hawaiian interisland airports used to look like before they got built up. It looks like Continental has a monopoly on the flights in this region.

It was exciting to get another stamp in my passport upon arrival. The Marshall Islands is one of those exotic places that would not otherwise be on my list of travel destinations, so the opportunity for a peek at islands in the South Pacific and bragging rights was well worth the business trip!

I felt exhilarated to be here.

I walked out of the airport terminal and a friendly looking gentleman who was all smiles came up to me and asked if I was Marilyn. The Marshall Islands Resort (MIR) sent him to fetch me. He had a gentle face and wide grin that showed off his sparkly gold tooth. If he represented the Marshallese people, I knew I would like it here.

The MIR is one of three main hotels on the island. Formerly under Outrigger management, it had seen better days. A face lift would do it well. But it was clean and offered all the basic amenities I needed to be comfortable during my stay. Next time I’ll try the RR Hotel, if I could opt for it – went there for dinner on my last night and it looked like a place that was tightly run.

So I didn’t get to sample Marshallese cuisine. I had all my meals at the two hotels and they served basic American fare. Actually, I think the two hotels knocked of each others menu because it seemed they served the same things. They need to fly in some top chefs or shore up their culinary skills – the food and service were pretty subpar…but I’m on an island…no complaining allowed.

I just went with the flow…ordered chardonnay and got cabernet instead; ordered a caesar salad and was presented with mixed greens; asked for some parmesan cheese to put some taste on my bland shrimp scampi with linguine and the kitchen didn’t have any (even though the description for the scampi described that it was topped with parmesan cheese); ordered orange juice for breakfast and they ran out; asked for desert and was offered a strawberry pie when it was really a cherry filling; and most disappointing of all, I ordered a breakfast burrito for its salsa accompaniment, only to find that my order came sans salsa…because they were out! How can one have a breakfast burrito without salsa!

Oh well! To be sure, this is not an island that has embraced customer service and the tourism industry with finesse! With just 7,000 tourists per year, they are still figuring things out. 7,000 is much more than the 4,000 the island has been accustomed to in the last few years.

The Japanese have discovered the secret – excellent diving and snorkeling off the outer atolls of Majuro. In October, JAL (Japan Airlines) will be running regularly scheduled flights into the island offering dive packages to its clients.

To me, the island is a hidden jewel. This must’ve been what Bali looked like before it became the visitor’s mecca it is today. It’ll only be a matter of time when word gets out about its nearby ocean treasures before keen divers and snorkelers come in droves!

I’m going to stamp my memory with what will inevitably soon be referred to as “what Majuro used to be…”

Le Petite Bateau

After reading excerpts from my travel journal, a friend of mine wrote me and compared my journey to the imagery of a classical French poem he recalled.

The poem featured an allusion to a small boat that gets free from its moorings and drifts along a lazy stream. As it does so, it witnesses the events surrounding the provincial French countryside. Eventually, it makes its way to the vast open ocean and is astounded and awestruck by the sheer beauty of it all.

His depiction of le petite bateau was like reading a page from my travel diary.

Does anyone recognize this poem? Is it Hugo? Baudelaire? If anyone has any insight, please let me know...

Ping Pongs at Patpong

Now I feel that my visit to Bangkok is complete! I likened my dillemma to traveling to Anaheim and not paying a visit to Disneyland! You've read about it, you've heard all the stories...so you're in town...you gotta go#@!?

...Right???

I'm rambling about the notorious red-light district known as Patpong in Bangkok. It's in all the travel guides.

Well, after three very strong white russian cocktails, I managed to muster enough nerve and simultaneously abandon all my Catholic inhibitions & relinquish my Asian sensibilities - and hailed a cab to take me "shopping" in the Patpong district.

No sooner did I step out of the taxi when I was accosted by touts with graphic pictures and descriptions of shows they were trying to solicit. I raised my hand to gesture "no" and turned my nose up with false indignation.

Yet, beneath the veneer of indifference, lay desperate human curiosity. (How else could I explain the behavior of a single woman foraying in the seedier areas of town?)

I paced the main drag about three times. Soon I felt self-conscious that the touts were actually beginning to recognize me! I was sobering up rather quickly and I knew that I had to make my move before all my courage was lost.

As I tried to be nonchalant, I noticed an American couple enter a bar. I quickly followed behind them hoping to "blend."

Without being too graphic, here are the highlights: Ping-Pong balls propelled into the air with incredible precision into buckets across the room; Bottle caps that were like sling shots after incredibly being twisted off their respective bottles; and darts aimed at balloons above my head - I cringed during this part of the act...what if they missed?

I didn't have travel insurance. That was all I could risk...

So are the bragging rights worth it? Yeah...if only to say, "been there, done that."

Ladies? Boys? Lady-Boys!!!

Went to a Lady-Boy cabaret show last night...left me in a quandry...

If I was a heterosexual man in Thailand, I'd be in trouble! Straight men BEWARE! Just remember, when in Rome do like the Romans, when in Thailand, REFRAIN!