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Sunday, August 31, 2008

Sakau ceremony

Sakau, otherwise known as kava is a drink that is commonly consumed by the locals. A ritual drinking ceremony is performed on special occasions with sakau and I was honored to have been invited to two parties while in Pohnpei at which I had the opportunity to try it.

Sakau is made from a root that is pounded on a large flat stone with a lava rock pounder. A mixture of water is poured over the root which facilitates the liquid-like consistency. To extract the liquid, the roots are placed within the stripped bark of the hibiscus tree where it is then twisted and squeezed until the final concoction oozes out. All that ooze is captured in a cup made out of coconut shell and passed around for sipping.

What does it look like? It looks like mud! What does it takes like? In a word, mud. Its texture is slimy (think stewed okra) and I could only manage small sips – a bigger gulp would surely inspire regurgitation. It has hints of an herbal flavor which soon dissipates because it leaves your lips and tongue absolutely numb.

Sakau is supposed to have a relaxing effect on the drinker. By the looks of the men that drank a lot of it, I can confirm that their eyelids went to half mast, their motor skills appeared to be impaired, and they looked like they were just one step away from being comatose.

The word is that sakau (followed by alcohol) is supposed to help male sexual enhancement. Honestly, this assertion seems a little suspect to me. The effects of this elixir make snails and slugs look agile and nimble. Of course, I’ll need more empirical data to draw any definitive conclusions. Yes…I’ll have to find some willing participants to test the hypothesis the next time.

The beauty of drinking sakau is in the ceremony and the rituals involved in making and sharing it. It’s rich in cultural tradition. The first cups go to the king, followed by the chief, the chief’s wife, titled men and the sakau makers. Once this is done, the sakau is shared with everyone. In particular, I embraced the idea that everyone drank from the same cup thereby reinforcing the sense of family and their oneness. On special occasions, ceremonies like this bring the community together. I was honored to be invited to such a rare occasion.

There’s something so reverent about being a part of something so rich in tradition and authentic. On my last night in Pohnpei, I went to a gathering (of at least 150 people – as they spilled into the streets) to celebrate a matriarch’s 88th birthday. The owner of the hotel I stayed at invited me to join his family for the celebration – it was his mother’s birthday. 5 pigs were sacrificed for the occasion! It was a feast to behold (breadfruit, yam, fresh fish and at least half a dozen cakes)! About a dozen deep dish bowls were prepared with an abundance of food before the feast began. They were served to the guests in order of importance (first bowls going to the chief, the village/municipal elders and the birthday recipient). Can you imagine the honor I felt when I was amongst that lineup? I was moved!

Earlier that day, on the drive up to the home of the birthday gal, my host and fellow guests who accompanied me in the car serenaded me with song. Anthony Bourdain should be jealous! When the sakau ceremony commenced, I was the second female to be offered the first sip. Words cannot express the honor that I felt. I’ve found me a new family!

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