Sakau ceremony

Sakau, otherwise known as kava is a drink that is commonly consumed by the locals. A ritual drinking ceremony is performed on special occasions with sakau and I was honored to have been invited to two parties while in Pohnpei at which I had the opportunity to try it.

Sakau is made from a root that is pounded on a large flat stone with a lava rock pounder. A mixture of water is poured over the root which facilitates the liquid-like consistency. To extract the liquid, the roots are placed within the stripped bark of the hibiscus tree where it is then twisted and squeezed until the final concoction oozes out. All that ooze is captured in a cup made out of coconut shell and passed around for sipping.

What does it look like? It looks like mud! What does it takes like? In a word, mud. Its texture is slimy (think stewed okra) and I could only manage small sips – a bigger gulp would surely inspire regurgitation. It has hints of an herbal flavor which soon dissipates because it leaves your lips and tongue absolutely numb.

Sakau is supposed to have a relaxing effect on the drinker. By the looks of the men that drank a lot of it, I can confirm that their eyelids went to half mast, their motor skills appeared to be impaired, and they looked like they were just one step away from being comatose.

The word is that sakau (followed by alcohol) is supposed to help male sexual enhancement. Honestly, this assertion seems a little suspect to me. The effects of this elixir make snails and slugs look agile and nimble. Of course, I’ll need more empirical data to draw any definitive conclusions. Yes…I’ll have to find some willing participants to test the hypothesis the next time.

The beauty of drinking sakau is in the ceremony and the rituals involved in making and sharing it. It’s rich in cultural tradition. The first cups go to the king, followed by the chief, the chief’s wife, titled men and the sakau makers. Once this is done, the sakau is shared with everyone. In particular, I embraced the idea that everyone drank from the same cup thereby reinforcing the sense of family and their oneness. On special occasions, ceremonies like this bring the community together. I was honored to be invited to such a rare occasion.

There’s something so reverent about being a part of something so rich in tradition and authentic. On my last night in Pohnpei, I went to a gathering (of at least 150 people – as they spilled into the streets) to celebrate a matriarch’s 88th birthday. The owner of the hotel I stayed at invited me to join his family for the celebration – it was his mother’s birthday. 5 pigs were sacrificed for the occasion! It was a feast to behold (breadfruit, yam, fresh fish and at least half a dozen cakes)! About a dozen deep dish bowls were prepared with an abundance of food before the feast began. They were served to the guests in order of importance (first bowls going to the chief, the village/municipal elders and the birthday recipient). Can you imagine the honor I felt when I was amongst that lineup? I was moved!

Earlier that day, on the drive up to the home of the birthday gal, my host and fellow guests who accompanied me in the car serenaded me with song. Anthony Bourdain should be jealous! When the sakau ceremony commenced, I was the second female to be offered the first sip. Words cannot express the honor that I felt. I’ve found me a new family!

Kwajalein & Kosrae

The flight on my itinerary identified origination – Majuro, and destination – Pohnpei. What should’ve been a two hour flight was the most obnoxious flight experience I’ve ever had!

First, the flight was delayed – but that was the least disturbing of a bizarre series of things that were about to unfold.

About an hour in flight, I felt a descent. The flight attendant announced that we were about to arrive in Kwajalein. “Am I on the right flight,” I questioned. Kwajalein is an island that has been occupied by the US military. We were told not to take any photographs. It was such a shame because the island boasted so much beauty – even the area that surrounded the landing strip seemed undisturbed by the fact that this place was being exploited for dubious reasons and unsettling uses. From the veneer of the plane’s window, the scenery was so serene.

What came next was a safety check procedure. A staff of “security” people came in to inspect carry-ons. We were asked to get out of our seats and move aside while the cabin was meticulously searched and inspected. Each seat was disassembled – who knows what they were checking for…

Thirty minutes later and several passengers added in transit, and we were back in flight to Pohnpei…or so I thought….

The whole scenario repeated itself in Kosrae, another island in the Micronesian archipelago.

Arggghhh!!! -A two hour flight should never be this excruciatingly long. This wasn’t even in the flight itinerary. Is this standard operating procedure?

I wonder if this is what it’s like going in the other direction. If so, I need to pack some hard liquor on the flight back.

Majuro - A hidden jewel

I arrived in Majuro and unbeknownst to me, crossed the international date line and found that I arrived one day later than when I had left Honolulu on an early morning four and a half hour flight.

Upon descent, I saw Majuro atoll and it resembled one long strip of land, divided by a road flanked by ocean on both sides – that’s how narrow some parts of the island are!

The main terminal reminded me of what the Hawaiian interisland airports used to look like before they got built up. It looks like Continental has a monopoly on the flights in this region.

It was exciting to get another stamp in my passport upon arrival. The Marshall Islands is one of those exotic places that would not otherwise be on my list of travel destinations, so the opportunity for a peek at islands in the South Pacific and bragging rights was well worth the business trip!

I felt exhilarated to be here.

I walked out of the airport terminal and a friendly looking gentleman who was all smiles came up to me and asked if I was Marilyn. The Marshall Islands Resort (MIR) sent him to fetch me. He had a gentle face and wide grin that showed off his sparkly gold tooth. If he represented the Marshallese people, I knew I would like it here.

The MIR is one of three main hotels on the island. Formerly under Outrigger management, it had seen better days. A face lift would do it well. But it was clean and offered all the basic amenities I needed to be comfortable during my stay. Next time I’ll try the RR Hotel, if I could opt for it – went there for dinner on my last night and it looked like a place that was tightly run.

So I didn’t get to sample Marshallese cuisine. I had all my meals at the two hotels and they served basic American fare. Actually, I think the two hotels knocked of each others menu because it seemed they served the same things. They need to fly in some top chefs or shore up their culinary skills – the food and service were pretty subpar…but I’m on an island…no complaining allowed.

I just went with the flow…ordered chardonnay and got cabernet instead; ordered a caesar salad and was presented with mixed greens; asked for some parmesan cheese to put some taste on my bland shrimp scampi with linguine and the kitchen didn’t have any (even though the description for the scampi described that it was topped with parmesan cheese); ordered orange juice for breakfast and they ran out; asked for desert and was offered a strawberry pie when it was really a cherry filling; and most disappointing of all, I ordered a breakfast burrito for its salsa accompaniment, only to find that my order came sans salsa…because they were out! How can one have a breakfast burrito without salsa!

Oh well! To be sure, this is not an island that has embraced customer service and the tourism industry with finesse! With just 7,000 tourists per year, they are still figuring things out. 7,000 is much more than the 4,000 the island has been accustomed to in the last few years.

The Japanese have discovered the secret – excellent diving and snorkeling off the outer atolls of Majuro. In October, JAL (Japan Airlines) will be running regularly scheduled flights into the island offering dive packages to its clients.

To me, the island is a hidden jewel. This must’ve been what Bali looked like before it became the visitor’s mecca it is today. It’ll only be a matter of time when word gets out about its nearby ocean treasures before keen divers and snorkelers come in droves!

I’m going to stamp my memory with what will inevitably soon be referred to as “what Majuro used to be…”